Costa Smeralda or
southern Gallura?
It's the question we get most often on the phone. Here's what we really think after seventeen years in the area — and no interest in selling you anything other than an honest answer.
What we mean by Costa Smeralda
By Costa Smeralda we mean the area going from Cala di Volpe to Porto Cervo, up to Baja Sardinia and Cannigione. Founded in the 1960s by Prince Aga Khan as a luxury destination, much of that identity remains. Postcard villas, five-star hotels, yachts, important prices.
What we mean by southern Gallura
The coastal stretch from Olbia to Capo Coda Cavallo, passing through Porto San Paolo, Murta Maria, Loiri and San Teodoro. Authentic Sardinia, with villages alive year-round, restaurants without a dress code, equally beautiful but less mondain beaches.
Five concrete differences
1. Atmosphere
Costa Smeralda: glamour, exclusivity, international nightlife. Southern Gallura: village life, evening markets, Italian families, no dress code.
2. Prices
For a comparable apartment in high season, the difference can be 3:1. Porto Cervo starts at €350/night for basic options; Porto San Paolo offers curated homes at €110–150/night.
3. Beaches
Honestly: the quality is similar. Spiaggia del Principe and La Celvia (Costa Smeralda) are iconic, but Cala Brandinchi and Porto Istana (southern Gallura) hold their own. The difference is the context: more expensive parking, premium-priced beach clubs vs. honest establishments and free beaches.
4. Eating
Costa Smeralda: starred restaurants, sushi at the harbour, three-figure bills. Southern Gallura: fish trattorias, pizzerias on the seafront, two-figure bills — and honestly the food is just as good.
5. Movement
From Porto San Paolo or Murta Maria you reach Porto Cervo in 35–40 minutes. So sleeping in southern Gallura denies you nothing. One evening you can have a drink at Phi Beach and head home, saving the cost of the hotel.
Who Costa Smeralda is for
If you want the iconic experience, club nights, butler villas, Vogue-cover life. If you don't worry about the price of a cocktail. If you travel to be seen.
Who southern Gallura is for
If you want the authentic Sardinia, traditions, lively villages, equally beautiful beaches, real restaurants, and the chance to stay two weeks without breaking the bank. If you travel to live a place.
Our take
Sleep in southern Gallura, do your day trips on Costa Smeralda when you fancy. It's the best compromise: an authentic stay, a sensible budget, and all the freedom to taste the other Sardinia when you feel like it.